Four of the most popular types include vinyl, fiber-cement, PVC, and wood. So, without further ado, here are the advantages and disadvantages of wood siding. Read through our list and see if you consider any of them to be dealbreakers. If so, you might want to reevaluate your choice. The cons of wood include:. With a little bit of extra maintenance, it can last for decades and look great throughout the years.
Some people would rather complete home projects themselves than hire a professional. They include:. This is just an overview of the steps to take when installing or replacing your siding. For more information about siding replacement, please feel free to contact us by calling or filling out a contact form here. At Legacy Service, we take pride in our siding installation expertise as well as our eye for design.
We also provide a variety of other services, which we can customize to fulfill your needs as a homeowner. Apply self-adhesive flashing tape to corners and around windows and doors. Take special care not to crease the wrap or flashings. Install exterior trim around the windows and doors as needed. Be sure to choose a wood stain or material for the trim that will complement your new shingle siding.
If you plan to weave the shingles at outside corners see steps 6 and 7 , you don't need outside corner trim. Use a story pole to lay out courses and help you avoid using narrow pieces above or below windows and doors. You may choose to raise or lower the bottom course to achieve the desired layout see step 10 or use the swing-stick method to keep the layout consistent.
Mark the layout all around the house. Install inside corner trim pieces. Ideally, these should not be too visible, but they must be wide enough to provide room for caulking after the shingles are installed. Hold up several layers of shingles to make sure the trim is thick enough. Install the first starter-course piece at a corner. It should run past the corner by about 1 inch.
Use a small level to hold it plumb and attach with two nails or staples. Less-expensive, low-grade shingles can be used as the starter course.
Install a piece on the other side of the corner butted against the first piece. Use a utility knife to roughly cut the first piece. Slice once or twice, then snap the shingle apart. If needed, you can cut shingles using a table saw, chop saw, or radial-arm saw.
In the example shown, the miter gauge is used to cut corner pieces at a slight angle, which eliminates the need to knife-trim perhaps even planing smooth the corner pieces. If you use a circular saw, clamp the shingle first to keep your fingers away from the blade. If the grain is straight and knot-free, use a utility knife to make simple cuts. You may need to touch up the split for a smooth edge.
Use a small block plane or Surform tool to trim the shingle edge flush. When building a corner, trim and plane each piece before moving on to the next course. Make a jig as shown as a quick, failsafe way to keep the courses even.
Use a straight 1x4 as the guide and 1x2s as the hangers. Check that it's level and fasten it with 3-inch screws. The starter course is made of two layers of shingles. You will likely need to cut the last pieces in each row. You can hand-nail shingles, but the job goes faster with a pneumatic nailer or stapler. A stapler is used most often because it is less likely to split the shingles. Even if you are shingling just a single wall, renting power equipment will be worth the cost.
Adjust the stapler so it drives the staples just flush and does not indent them. When you hit a stud, the staple may not sink in completely; drive the staple flush with a hammer. Use galvanized nails or staples for most of the job, but stainless-steel nails are the best choice wherever the heads will show. Build up the corners. The bottom course which is on top of the starter course may be anywhere from 1 to 4 inches above the starter course, depending on your layout.
To maintain correct exposures, use a homemade exposure guide. Drive nails or staples about 1 inch above the exposure so they will be covered. Be sure to check your layout marks every few courses.
Trim and plane a corner board before you install the next course. The simplest and most common pattern for sidewall shingles and shakes is single coursing. For wider exposures and deeper shadow lines, shingles and shakes can also be installed in double courses.
A rustic staggered pattern is also possible. The Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau recommends installation over Type 30 asphalt felt underlayment for red cedar shingles and shakes. Install the felt paper with minimum 6-inch overlaps on vertical joints, 2 inches on horizontal laps, and 4 inches wrapped each way at inside and outside corners. Creasing the felt at corners will help achieve a tight fitting corner. They acknowledge that most sidewall installations still go directly over the wall sheathing covered with felt paper or plastic housewrap.
Tack up a length of 1x3 furring as a guide for the next course, moving up the wall with each successive course. To create a weather-tight exterior, do not exceed the exposures shown in Table above. With white cedar shingles, also make sure that two joints do not align if separated by only one course. For increased exposures and deeper shadow lines with red cedar shingles or shakes, apply in double courses, as shown Figure Installation of wood shingles on a building wall starts at the bottom with a triple layer and succeeding layers are doubled as shown.
Use corrosion-resistant box or casing nails of either stainless steel, hot-dipped galvanized, brass, or aluminum. For concealed nails, hot-dipped galvanized are adequate. For exposed nails at corners and under eaves and windows, stainless steel, brass, or aluminum are less likely to stain the wood.
Nails should fully penetrate the sheathing see Table below. Drive nails flush with the surface. Do not overdrive and set the nails or leave them projecting from the surface. Here is what the USDA says about wood shingle nailing - notice that the spacing from each end is handled differently:. Nail placement for cedar shingles up to 10 in. For shingles wider than 10 in. Corrosion-resistant nails are needed to avoid iron stains caused by extractives in the wood and corrosion by acid rain, salt air, etc.
USDA as well as typical manufacturer installation instructions for wood shingles specify two nails per shingle. As extra protection, it is a good idea to add a layer of flashing or No. Below our photographs show two wood shingle details for constructing outside wall corners, also demonstrated in the sketch above. On an outside corner shingled this way, the exposed edge alternates every course. To keep outside corners tight, nail through the butts with a small hot-dipped galvanized finish nail.
On woven inside corners, alternating courses keep the joints tight. To simplify and speed up installation, several manufacturers offer sidewall shingles attached to panels with either staples or adhesive see Figure The wood shingle panels range from one-course panels 32 inches wide to three-, four-, and five-course panels 2 feet wide by 8 feet long, including panels with decorative patterns. Some wood siding shingle manufacturers also offer prefabricated inside and outside corners, radiused panels for curved walls, column wraps, and other types of labor-intensive details.
Eastern white cedar shingles are often left unfinished and tend to weather to an attractive silver gray—particularly with exposure to sun and salt air in coastal climates. However, splashback and other uneven weathering conditions can lead to dark streaks or splotches photo, below left, Hudson Valley, NY. To accelerate the weathering process and to guarantee uniformity of color, a bleaching oil is recommended. For a pigmented finish, use an oil-based, semitransparent stain.
Prefinished white cedar shingles are available with a stained finish or pretreated with bleaching oil. If left unfinished, red cedar shingles will tend to weather to a dark reddish-brown color. See our photo above right, Two Harbors MN To guarantee uniformity of color, red cedar shingles should be finished with an oil-based clear finish, oil-based stain, or bleaching oil.
Factory finished shingles and shakes are available pre primed or pre stained, ready for a top coat after installation. On - by mod - Do not caulk the side joints of your cedar shake siding;. Charlie Do not caulk the side joints of your cedar shake siding; not only will that create a horrible cosmetic fiasco, but it will prevent the shakes from draining and drying properly. Those gaps are normal with age and weathering; as long as there are no splits or cracks in the shakes themselves such that there are leaks into the wall cavity you should be ok.
My house has typical cedar shake siding from that era. They were installed over some kind of backing board, but with no vertical gaps between the shakes.
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